Day 3: (16 July) History & Media Studies

The third day arrives, with the sweltering Prishtina atmosphere greeting the students. The morning provides a trip to the Ethnological Musuem, where the group learned of "traditional" Albanian family structures, art, and value codes, among other aspects of Kosovar history.

After a break, everyone meets up at Friends restaurant for an informal lunch with Dukagjin Gorani. Dukagjiin has an esteemed background in journalism, but has since rejected the practice and now pursuing academia and teaching at the Kosovo Institute for Journalism & Communication (KIJAC). KIJAC is a Graduate School of Journalism for Kosovar scholars, with state of the art facilities, roughly 30 students, and a penchant for self-awareness. While the hungry conferencers awkwardly attempt to eat and listen at the same time, Dukagjin gives a riveting speech that references, among others, Michel Foucault, Benedict Anderson, and the problematic construction of identities. Arguing against the current political paradigms of nationalism and ethnicity, Dukagjin is fascinated by parallel systems of reality, identity, and power structures within the Balkans. He believes that while the European Union may be an imperfect identity for Kosovo/a to strive for, it nevertheless is an archetype worth pursuing. His parting words state a desire for politicians to become public servants rather than wielders of power.

From one bar to another: the group borders on becoming the "badihavxhi," though a politically-minded one to be sure [see: wandering, jobless coffee-goers]; as they head down the street to sit and reflect on the sometimes-paradoxical yet always illuminating conversation with Dukagjin. Talk is focused on problems of the European Union as a "way out" of identity issues, but soon its time to move forward with the day to meet another critic of Kosovar politics: Jeta Xharra.

As coffee and, for a change of pace, mineral water, is served to the group, Jeta Xharra discusses her career as the host of an acclaimed and controversial political debate show "Jeta ne Kosove" (Life in Kosovo). Among other distinguished criteria, Jeta's bachelor's degree in War Studies seems to have been one of the biggest influences, as weekly she stands up and holds accountable politicians and other figures all along the political spectrum with her riveting and controversial interview style. She argues that her potent and direct questioning is an act of undermining the staid conventions of politics in Kosovo/a, and as a young woman she is bringing important issues to the table and opening debate beyond the traditional polemics. She detailed the difficult path taken by her and the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network that she directs. A small, but important aspect she notes was subtitles: so that those in the region could here other languages in places other border checkpoints and police stations.

Some free time finds the group leisurely sprawled across the apartment, out shopping for shoes and cigarettes, and some more chaos in the kitchen. Another great meal is served, though - gibanica, a Serbian phyllo pastry pie, and a plethora of salads - Greek, Serbian, and a surprise fruit salad with whipped cream to top off the meal. After dinner, plans to paint the town red dissolve into relaxing on the balcony and continuing with playful and engrossing banter into the early morning. Day 3 is concluded.